20091210

NZ is not in my ‘must visit’ list, but then…

‘New Zealand is not in my “must visit” list,’ I often tell my friends. But Milford Sound is! It sounds ironical as Milford Sound IS in New Zealand.

But life can be full of ironies anyway!

And so when I saw that the soft adventure group which I have been joining their trips since 2006 was organising a trip to South Island including the Milford Track, I signed up without much thinking!

It was a 16-day (excluding travelling days) trip, including the 4-day / 3-night Milford Track.

We were told that we had to carry our own backpacks along the track as there would not be any porters to help us. Having been to trekking in Nepal and India where we could have the luxury of hiring porters / horses at very reasonable price, this self-carry stuff was kind of a challenge to me. But I was determined to make it.

The training at Bukit Gasing with a load of 10-12kg on my back did an amazing job!

And oh yes, to make my air ticket more worthwhile (excuse, excuse!!), I extended the trip by ten days and hopped over to the North Island and I am glad I did it!

The Summary

Summary of the trip
(Click on the photo to view larger version)

The Route

(Click on the photo to view larger version)

Disappointed But Not So After All

Upon arriving at Christchurch International Airport in the morning and having picked up our rented vehicles (one 12-seater van and a sedan car), we left for Antarctic Centre which is located only a short distance away from the airport.

While we did have some fun at the centre, I have to say I was kind of disappointed. Having read all about it on the Centre’s website, I was looking forward to a ‘huge’ centre with some real exciting time and experience, but it did not turn out to be exactly so.

Our first overnight stop was Kaikoura, a seaside town which is 183km north of Christchurch.

After the initial disappointment at the Antarctic Centre, we were delighted to be ‘treated’ with beautiful scenery on the way. Traffic was not heavy and initially the road was flat and straight while at later part, certain stretches were steep and winding. The hills were blanketed in beautiful yellow flowers. We arrived in Kaikoura well passed seven and we had our first of the many ‘home-cooked’ dinners of rice, omelette, fried vegetable with chicken meat, and fried sausages.

Antarctic Centre

On the Hagglund ride – actual
amphibious vehicles used in the Antarctic.

Penguin encounter

Feeding time

Simulated Antarctic storm

Experiencing the Antarctic storm.
Jackets and over-shoes provided by the centre.

On the way to Kaikoura (above and below)


Hills blanketed with beautiful yellow flowers

We were in the country where sheep outnumbers people

Kaikoura, Dolphin Encounter and Lavender Farm

As soon as we arrived in Kaikoura, I took an instant liking of the town. Our motel overlooks the sea and in the distance, snow-capped mountains dominate the horizon. And with the clear blue sea-water, the beautiful ‘setting’ had a soothing effect. It ‘washed’ away the tiredness from the long hours of travelling.

Kaikoura is not only has its ‘good look’, it is also famous for whale watching and dolphin watching. The following morning, many of us decided to go for dolphin ‘encounter’ followed by a visit to Lavender Farm in the afternoon.

We were lucky to ‘encounter’ hundreds of them and our cruise pilot told us we were indeed very, very lucky. (Note: If the ‘turnout’ of dolphins is poor, the company would refund the patrons, the amount would depend on how far the journey one has covered, and also there is some deduction for administrative fees.)

Kaikoura town, the street in front of our motel

Close-up view from our motel

On the dolphin-encounter ‘tour’

View form the boat

The adventurous ones – swimming with the dolphins

Lucky to have so many dolphins around

On the way to lavender farm

View from the coastal road

Kaikoura to Greymouth

From Kaikoura, we travelled southwards before heading westwards to Greymouth, another coastal town, 329km away.

We left the motel at 8:15am, arriving in Greymouth only at 7:20pm with many stops in between, either merely for short breaks or for sightseeing.

There was a slight drizzle in the morning, otherwise the weather was fine and scenery along the way was just beautiful and ‘eye-soothing’.

After about 4 hours of long journey, we came to Maruia Springs, a small, self-contained thermal resort on the banks of the Maruia River. Some of us went for a dip at the outdoor pool and the indoor Japanese pool. It was refreshing and relaxing.

Before arriving in Greymouth, we stopped at Punakaiki, the place famous for its ‘weird’ and unique Pancake Rocks and Blowholes.

Waiau town

Presbyterian Church, Waiau

Scenery along the way (above and below)


State highway without any other vehicles over a long
distance is quite a common sight in New Zealand.

Maruia Springs

Happy family outing, Hammer Spring

Hammer Spring town


Punakaiki Pancake Rocks and Blowholes


Pancake Rocks

Stacks of thin ‘pancakes’

Close-up view of the pancake rocks


Surge Pool

Water surges into caverns below the rocks
and squirts out in geyser-like blowholes.


Fox Glacier and Haast

Fourth day into our 16-day South Island tour. It was going to be another long day on the road, but who was complaining? I knew I wasn’t, because today we were going to Fox Glacier, one of the highlights of the tour. It didn’t matter that the journey would be long, or the road too straight and monotonous – I was looking forward to the walk on the glacier.

En route to the glacier, we stopped at Hokitika, 40km south of Greymouth. This little town is famous for greenstones – jade.

Finally, we arrived in Fox Glacier in the afternoon. We spent about 4 hours walking up to the highest point (about 950m) and return. It was a pleasant walk, with Scott, our guide, doing some briefing and explaining along the way.

Due to time constraint, it was a pity that we could not visit Lake Matheson (near Fox Glacier), supposedly a very beautiful lake.

By the time we arrived in Haast, it was 11:00pm. Checked in the motel, had a good shower and time to retire to bed as more hours of travelling awaiting us the following day.

Clock tower, Hokitika

Jade Factory

Interesting display of fridge magnets, Jade Factory

Snow-capped mountains everywhere


Fox Glacier





The trail

Scott, our guide, climbing up the aluminium ladder

People walking up the glacier in
the distance, long way to go for us!

More walking before reaching the glacier

Putting on the crampon before reaching the ice area

Finally – the glacier!



Scott hacking the ice to make walking on it easier

One for the album!

On the way back